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Orchid care: the complete guide

Guidance verified against University of Maryland Extension, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, Colorado State University Extension (PlantTalk Colorado), the American Orchid Society and the ASPCA on 17 September 2026. Sources linked below.

The common houseplant orchid is the Phalaenopsis, or moth orchid, and it needs bright indirect light, weekly watering in a bark mix rather than soil, and 50 to 70 percent humidity. Unlike every other plant on this site, it grows as an epiphyte, attached to bark in the wild rather than rooted in ground soil, which changes how it is watered and potted. The ASPCA lists it as non-toxic to cats, dogs and horses.

Which orchid is the common houseplant orchid?

Almost always the Phalaenopsis, also called the moth orchid. Of the roughly 28,000 orchid species that exist, Phalaenopsis is by far the one sold as a houseplant, at garden centres, supermarkets and florists alike, because it tolerates average home conditions and reblooms reliably indoors. This guide, like most sources that simply say "orchid care," means Phalaenopsis specifically. Other genera such as Cattleya, Dendrobium and Oncidium share the same bark-not-soil growing method described below but differ on light and temperature detail, so check the label if a plant is not a Phalaenopsis.

Why doesn't an orchid grow in soil?

Because it is an epiphyte: in the wild it grows attached to tree bark, not rooted in ground soil. A Phalaenopsis orchid's thick, silvery-green roots are adapted to cling to bark, absorb rainwater fast, then dry out completely in open air within hours. Ordinary potting soil holds water around those roots for days rather than hours, which suffocates and rots them; the whole point of a chunky bark mix is to copy the fast-wet, fast-dry cycle the roots evolved for. This is the single biggest way orchid care differs from every other plant on this site, most of which are grown in a moisture-retentive mix precisely because their roots need the opposite. The general soil and pot guide covers potting mix for houseplants that do use ordinary soil.

How much light does an orchid need?

Bright, indirect light from an east- or north-facing window; a south-facing window needs a sheer curtain to filter it. Per Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, direct sun can scorch Phalaenopsis foliage, while too little light stops the plant from reblooming even if it otherwise looks healthy. Where natural light is not enough, a fluorescent fixture placed 6 to 8 inches above the plant and run for 12 to 16 hours a day can substitute, per the same source. Dark green, floppy leaves usually signal too little light; reddish or yellowish leaves usually signal too much. The general light guide covers reading a room's light level for other plants.

How often should you water an orchid?

Roughly once a week while the plant is actively growing, soaking the bark mix thoroughly and then letting it drain completely, tapering to about every 10 to 14 days in cooler months. Because bark is not soil, the usual finger-test does not apply the same way; instead, check the plant's aerial roots. Per University of Maryland Extension, adequately watered roots turn from a dull silver or white to a pale, plump green, while roots that have stayed silvery-white for a while are a genuine sign the plant needs water now. Water should never be left standing in the pot or its saucer, since roots sitting in water is the single most common way an orchid dies. The general watering guide covers the soil finger test for plants that are grown in a moisture-retentive mix.

Does an orchid need high humidity?

Yes. Aim for 50 to 70 percent relative humidity, well above what most heated or air-conditioned homes hold year-round. A humidity tray of pebbles and water sitting just below the pot's base, or a small humidifier nearby, both raise the air around the plant without wetting the roots directly. Misting gives only a brief, minutes-long humidity boost and is not a substitute for either method. The general humidity guide covers grouping, trays and misting for houseplants generally.

An orchid's roots are built to dry fast in open air; burying them in ordinary potting mix, the right approach for most other houseplants, causes rot rather than growth.

What soil and pot does an orchid need?

A chunky bark mix, never potting soil, in a pot with excellent drainage and airflow. Per Colorado State University Extension (PlantTalk Colorado), a Phalaenopsis mix is typically medium-grade fir or redwood bark combined with a water-retaining material such as perlite, sphagnum moss or coconut husk chips, which holds a little moisture between waterings while still draining fast and letting air reach the roots. Many growers use a clear plastic pot specifically so root colour, the watering signal described above, can be checked at a glance without disturbing the plant, then sit that pot inside a decorative outer pot with no drainage hole removed for watering. Per Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, orchids benefit from repotting into fresh mix every 2 to 3 years; they often do not need a larger pot at that point, just new bark, since the old mix breaks down and starts holding too much water. The general repotting guide covers signs and method for houseplants grown in ordinary soil.

How and when do you fertilise an orchid?

Feed monthly during active growth with a fertiliser labelled for orchids, and stop through winter dormancy. Per Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, choose a formulation that does not contain urea, because bark-based mix lacks the soil microorganisms that would normally break urea down into a form the plant can absorb, so a urea-based fertiliser can build up unused rather than feeding the plant. Dilute to the label's stated strength rather than guessing weaker, since orchid fertiliser is generally sold already formulated for infrequent, monthly feeding rather than the little-and-often approach some other houseplants use. The general fertilising guide covers dilution ratios and spotting salt build-up in the mix.

What temperature does an orchid need?

Daytime temperatures of 70 to 80°F (21 to 27°C) and night-time temperatures of 60 to 65°F (16 to 18°C), per University of Maryland Extension. That day-to-night gap is not just tolerated, it is useful: a sustained cooler autumn night-time drop is one of the most reliable ways to trigger a Phalaenopsis into sending up a new flower spike, the same mechanism the general temperature guide notes several orchid genera rely on. Keep the plant away from cold draughts, heating vents and air-conditioning outlets, since a sudden temperature swing, rather than the ordinary day/night gap, is what stresses the plant.

How do you get an orchid to rebloom?

Once the flowers on a spike fade, cut the spike just above a healthy node rather than removing it entirely. Per the American Orchid Society, nodes appear as small, papery-scaled swellings spaced a few inches apart along the spike, and cutting cleanly just above one, ideally the second node down from where the flowers ended, gives the plant its best chance of branching and reblooming from that same spike rather than starting over. This is genuinely different from how every other plant on this site propagates or regrows: there is no stem or leaf cutting involved, and the "propagation" question for a Phalaenopsis is really a reblooming question. Occasionally a small plantlet called a keiki forms directly on the spike instead of a new flower branch; once it has grown two or three roots of its own, it can be cut away, just above and below its point of attachment, and potted separately in its own bark mix as a genuine new plant. The general propagation guide covers stem and leaf cuttings for houseplants that do propagate that way.

Why is my orchid dropping leaves or not blooming, and other common problems

Roots that stay wet, not pests, cause most orchid deaths, showing as yellowing leaves, a mushy stem base or roots that turn brown and hollow rather than staying firm. A healthy orchid also sends aerial roots out over the pot's rim and even into open air: this is normal behaviour for an epiphyte reaching for extra moisture and light, not a sign of a problem, and those roots should be left alone rather than tucked back into the mix. Mealybugs and scale are the two pests most likely to actually appear, both visible as small white, cottony or shell-like clusters, usually hiding in leaf joints or under the flower spike.

Is an orchid toxic to cats and dogs?

No. The ASPCA lists the Phalaenopsis orchid as non-toxic to cats, dogs and horses, the same three-species clearance as ponytail palm and African violet on this site's own pet-safe plant list. Non-toxic does not mean edible: a pet that chews the leaves or flowers can still get mild stomach upset from plant fibre alone, and store-bought orchids are sometimes treated with pesticides that are a separate reason to keep them out of reach.

FAQ

Why doesn't an orchid grow in soil?

Because it is an epiphyte. In the wild it grows attached to tree bark with roots built to dry fast in open air; potting soil holds too much water and causes rot.

How often should you water an orchid?

Roughly once a week when actively growing, tapering to every 10 to 14 days in cooler months. Check root colour: silvery-white means water now, green or plump means wait.

How do you get an orchid to rebloom?

Cut the spent flower spike just above a healthy node rather than at the base, giving it the best chance of a second flush of flowers from the same spike.

Is an orchid toxic to cats and dogs?

No. The ASPCA lists it as non-toxic to cats, dogs and horses.

Related guides

Sources

• University of Maryland Extension, Care of Phalaenopsis Orchids (Moth Orchids)
• Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, What Is the Proper Care for a Moth Orchid?
• Colorado State University Extension, PlantTalk Colorado: Orchid, Phalaenopsis
• American Orchid Society, Where Do I Cut the Spike?
• ASPCA, Toxic and Non-toxic Plants: Phalaenopsis Orchid